“If
there is heaven anywhere on Earth, it is here.” Where else other than Kashmir,
as we decided to seek some proof to this popular maxim, and Boy!! We got ample
proof of this fact. What struck me most of this heavenly place is not just the
natural beauty but the extremely warm hospitality of the Kashmiri people.
Of
course, it was much more than just a summer break from the oppressive May
heat!! After an hour’s delay in Mumbai airport, we landed in Srinagar airport
after amazing aerial views of the snow-capped glaciers. A short drive took us
to Basheer’s houseboat in Nigeen lake, a welcome alternative to the crowded Dal
lake. Home cooked kashmiri food on the houseboat included chicken delicacies
and rogan ghosht (made using mutton). The next day was reserved for Srinagar
city tour, which included many of its Mughal gardens and the Shankar acharya
temple, which provides a magnificent view of the city and the Dal lake, which
winds through the city like the Amazon. The 240-step staircase to the top of
the Shankar acharya temple was a decent climb. The climb, which is supposed to
be most challenging for children, was a cake walk for Aaditya, as he is easily
the fittest amongst the 3 of us.
The
next day, a short drive of about 60 kms took us on our way to Gulmarg. To
prevent commercialization of this place, there are not many hotels in Gulmarg,
so we checked into a new hotel in Tangmarg, which is 13 kms from Gulmarg. This
is sleepy little town with very hospitable people, as many locals that we met
during our evening walk, invited us home for some kashmiri mehmaan-nawaazi. The scenic beauty of this place is enthralling, as
we walked along a patchy road and reached a gushing river downstream and an
overhead rope bridge held together with wooden planks. We spent the evening
here among the gushing waters and on our way back, enjoyed some delicacies at
the local bakery and also some namak-waali
chai. Another popular drink worth mentioning is the Kashmiri kehwa (pronounced as kah-wa).
It is a hot tea beverage including multiple spices like cardamom, ginger, and
cloves. Kashmiri doctors also prescribe this drink for medicinal benefits.
The
next day was a treat as we enjoyed the Gondola ride in Gulmarg followed by the
horse ride to the local points. The horse ride was abruptly stopped due to oles (or hailstorm). An evening stroll
in a park in Tangmarg introduced us to a kashmiri local, who had come with his
15 yr old daughter and his son’s children. As the locals get married pretty
early in these parts, this man became a grandfather at 34!!
Unlike
some of the other popular tourist spots, the J&K government has not opted
for out and out commercialization of its places, including Pahalgham. Some the
best spots in this place are accessible only on a horse back and maintain its
pristinity. We admired the horses for their strength and never-complain
attitude. The horse track was slippery due to overnight rains, but the horses
never stopped. Baisaran is a beautiful spot with a green spread of grass
enveloped by the magnificient peaks. We clicked a lot of photos in this
beautiful meadow and thoroughly enjoyed the wonderful weather and experience.
The best thing is that all the tourist spots are very close to the hotels and
so we could come back for lunch at the hotel and then set out again. The cool
climate ensured that we were never tired and were always ready for stepping out
again.
